More Grand Case 3-20

We’ve had a great couple of days here at Grand Case. Perfect weather, not too hot and with a steady breeze. Friday was mostly a repeat of Thursday, head in for lunch and a swim on the beach. This time we had ribs from the big BBQ shack that we could smell all the way out at the boat. We were finally able to connect to the internet and managed to upload some blog posts and pay a couple of bills.

On Saturday we tried to hike up to the top of Goat Hill, but could not find a way to the path. There was construction going on, and they had fencing up at the road that led up the hill. No other access could be found, so what else could we do – head to the bakery for more baguette. This time they were hot out of the oven.

Back at the boat we had a swim, and Noah and I took the dinghy over to Rocher Creole to snorkel. The end of the point wasn’t that great, mostly rock and dead coral, but lots of small fish. Then we headed in toward the coast some, and found a lot of great coral, more fish, and even found a large eel down in the coral. First time seeing one up close while snorkeling.

After lunch, we decide to head to Friar’s Bay. The guide book lists this as a “MUST STOP” place. Its only a half hour sail, and as much as we like Grand Case, we can use a change. There are only 3 boats in the bay when we enter, but its Saturday and the beach is pretty busy (and yes Tim, also topless like the beaches back at Grand Case). We take the dinghy in, but there is no dock, so we tie it up to a mooring and swim in. There are two restaurants here, the Friar Bay Beach Cafe, and Kali’s Beach Bar. The guide book recommended Kali’s so we head that way. The beach is nice, but somewhat rocky out in the water. Kids have fun playing in the waves. After buying drinks, they still have the nerve to charge us $10 for the beach chairs, which bugs me to no end. Oh well, ‘paradise ain’t cheap’ as I was told some years ago in Hawaii. After the swim we head back out to the boat for dinner and watch the sunset. This is the first full sunset we have seen over water that was not blocked by clouds. No green flash, but nice. Tomorrow we head towards the east end of the Island and Orient Bay.

Grand Case 3-18

Awoke in the night to a huge downpour of rain, and had to scramble to get all the hatches closed up. It takes longer than normal because we have all of the Breeze Boosters set up in the hatches to help funnel air down into the cabins. Its a heavy rain, but no strong winds or lighting. After about 45 minutes its done raining and we can start cracking open hatches to cool down again.

In the morning we try to catch the cruiser’s net, but we are on the north side of the island and most of the boats are anchored in the lagoon on the south side, and there is too much static to really listen.

After breakfast we head in to town to check things out. The kids have discovered a taste for baguettes, and everyone we see is carrying at least one, so we set out on a mission to find the bakery. Success! bakery found and baguette quickly devoured. We head down the street, but its very narrow and we have to keep stepping off to let the cars go by. On the way back we walk back on the beach – much nicer.

The kids want to swim, so we go out to boat to get their suits. They swim while Tracy and I enjoy a light lunch a beach bar called Zene It. We can sit on their balcony and watch the kids directly below.

I make the mistake of ordering a ‘Ti Punch’ which by description sounds like a Caparaina, but is really just rum with 2 limes dropped in. The tomato salad with prosciutto is delicious. After the kids are done swimming they come in for their lunch and order ……. yes, you guessed it, chicken nuggets. Its funny hearing the order repeated in french. There is no translation, and I think it kills a frenchman to utter those words. Both kids declare the nuggets the best meal they have ever had. We add an order of calamari to complete the lunch. Kids swim after lunch, and we discover that there is Wi-Fi, but we are not able to upload any blog entrees without it timing out. At least we were able to send a couple of emails to let people know we are ok. By this time we are all getting a bit too much sun, and we head back out to the boat to rest. By 8pm both kids are exhausted and are in bed. I need to make more water, unfortunately at the end of the cycle the breaker tripped and would not reset. Not sure what is wrong, but it may need service. 

Marigot, St. Martin 3-17

The trade winds have set back in, providing a nice breeze in the bay and keeping the temperature down to a much more tolerable level. In the cruising guide we read of a cruiser’s net that happens every day at 7:30 on VHF channel 14. It’s quite entertaining, listening to the boats check in with where they are coming and going to, an over the air swap shop, and just general announcement. Its quite a little community they have established here, and they are having a party tonight at Turtle Pier, which I’m pretty sure is on the Dutch side of the lagoon. We are planning on moving on further around the French side tonight, so maybe next time.

We make a run into the supermarket to re-provision.  I’m happy to find that food is much cheaper here than in the BVI – and the French really know their breads and cheeses! We manage to get our cart load down the wooden boardwalk to the dinghy dock and out to the boat without capsizing.  Back on the boat a nice snack  of warm baguette and cheese is the reward for shopping.

After lunch we head back in toward the market area to give it a second chance and also plan a trip up to Fort Luis that overlooks the bay. The market seems a little nicer today, and we pick up some spices and local hot sauces, along with a couple of shirts. Its a nice walk up to the top of the fort and the views are pretty amazing.

One the way back to the boat we need to stop and get gas and oil for the dinghy because there won’t be a lot of marina options in the next few days. Once back, we quickly get the boat ready to leave, so we can make it in to Grand Case in good light. Its just a short motor sail around the island to the next large bay. I’m feeling a bit lazy so far on this trip, feeling more like power boater than a sailor as we always seem to be motoring. Our pace is starting to slow down now, and we should have more time for nice leisurely sails to our next few stops.

We Made it! St. Martin 3-16

The forecast held, the waves were down and the wind was light and from the south, allowing us to motor sail just off the wind at about 6 knots for most of the night without pushing hard. Before dark we watched several schools of flying fish soaring all around the boat – very amusing. We made the trip in about 13 hours, getting to Marigot just before dawn, and circling in the deep water for about 1/2 an hour before going in to anchor. I’m a little tired, only napping for a about an hour and a half. A long shower helped, but soon its hot (still no breeze) and we are all in the water for a swim while we wait for immigrations to open at 9:30. We have our yellow ‘Q’  flag hoisted, meaning we have entered but not cleared in, and we must stay on the boat. (or in our case near the boat).

Clear in goes smoothly, even though we have to pay $50 for the privilege of anchoring in the bay. In hindsight the guy gave me a couple of chances to tell him that we would anchor somewhere else, almost hinting that it wouldn’t matter if we then stayed in the bay. Well no sleep had the brain working slow, so I said no, we feel like staying.

We check out the market area around the docks, but its very disappointing. (not to mention freaking hot and still!!)    Once in the dinghy, we head under the bridge into Simpson Lagoon. Here we find the St. Martin that the yachties speak so highly of. Lots of boat supply and repair yards and nice water front with shops and restaurants. We will be back to check these out after a cool down swim at the boat.

The afternoon ends up being pretty lazy. I make one more trip in to check out the boat supply store and supermarket. The boat store doesn’t have much other than $13 electrical tape ( I thought things were supposed to be cheaper in St. Martin. Just cheap watches by the cruise ship docks, I guess), but the supermarket is well stocked.  I manage to score the pans we have been searching for since Trellis Bay and some swim noodles so we don’t have to listen to the kids argue about who’s turn it is with the one that was on the boat.  (now we just hear them argue about which color they get)

The evening is capped off by another family monopoly game and an early nights sleep after the long passage.  We noticed that around sunset the bay cleared out and there are now only a fraction of the boats in the bay. Not sure if this is due to the $50 fee or if they were all here to start an offshore passage. This is the only place to clear in/out of the French side of the island so apparently it gets a lot of traffic.

Preparing to leave 3-15

Nice quiet evening at Saba Rock. The weather is cooperating for our passage, but the that means the wind has dropped and its pretty hot here without the steady breeze of the trade winds. In morning we head in to shore for coffee and snacks, but forgot to allow for island time. At 8:30, the 7:30 breakfast was still in the ‘hose down the outdoor tables’ stage. We waited for a while, snapping a few quick pictures of Saba Rock and using Wi-Fi to pay a couple of bills and call home via Skype.

  We finally gave up on coffee and headed back to the boat for a quick swim, and then a Skype video call to Noah’s classroom. We could see them, but they couldn’t see us, so we have some tech bugs to work out there. Hopefully it was just the weak signal out at the boat. Even without full video, Noah enjoyed seeing and hearing from his friends. After the call we went in to the docks to top off the water tanks and grab some ice, then we headed towards Spanish Town to clear out of customs/immigrations. We also need to top off the fuel tanks, as we are expecting to motor all the way to St. Martin. This is usually because of the strong headwinds, waves and current, but tonight we are hoping to motor due to light winds.  All of this goes smoothly, and by 4pm we are heading out of Spanish Town/Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor and heading south to the Round Rock Passage.

The passages out of the BVI are unmarked, and surrounded by reef and rocks, which requires that you leave during daylight. The trip to St. Martin is typically 15 hours, so it is not practical to leave in the morning and make the trip before the sunsets. Its equally bad to arrive at a new port in the dark, which is why we are making the trip overnight. Photo below is a reminder of the danger of navigating the passages in the dark.

We clear the passage at 4:30 and heat ESE towards St. Martin. We can see a couple of other boats heading that way. Crew is smiling, but all are nervous. It may not seem like much, just 80 miles, but an overnight crossing where you are out of sight of land for about 10 of the 15 hours and essentially on your own is a big step. All research says this passage is one of the worst in the Caribbean – against the wind, Atlantic swells, and counter currents. But we have been patient, and are lucky enough to have a very favorable forecast for both wind and waves, so fingers are crossed for a peaceful trip.

Bitter End Yacht Club and Saba Rock 3-14

We had a peaceful night at anchor in Leverick Bay. Lounged around most of the morning and then raised anchor and made the long trip to the Bitter End Yacht Club. (about 10 minutes). We grabbed a mooring ball right out front, jumped in for a quick swim and then headed in. Pick up a couple of souvenirs at the store and then hit the beach. What a great place.

 

 

 

 

 

After the swim, we head over to Saba Rock for lunch. Its just a little island off the beach, but turns out to be a great place. The dinghy dock is right at the restaurant, which sits on the dock above the water. Good food, right on the water with an amazing view of the bay. This is now one of my favorite places. Unfortunately the camera battery died while we were there, so not many pictures. But we’ll be back.  (Did I mention happy hour from 4-6 with $2.50 painkillers!)

From the back side of the island you overlook Eustatia sound, and beyond the reef – nothing but ocean. Its a calm day but you can still see the occasional wave breaking over the reef.  The weather is still looking good, so our plan is still to make the overnight sail to St. Martin on Monday night. We got a few tips from Capt. Bob on clearing out of BVI and using the southern passage at round rock to start our trip. We’ll check the weather again in the morning, then top off the fuel and water tanks, clear out after lunch, and hit the open ocean around 3-4pm.